What is a replica Rolex Explorer II 1655?
A replica Rolex Explorer II 1655 is a copy of the vintage 40mm steel GMT watch Rolex built from 1971 to 1985, the one with the fixed 24-hour bezel and the orange 24-hour hand. Good copies match the case profile, matte dial, and acrylic crystal; weak ones use a thick case, shiny hands, and a fourth hand that never moves. Most sellers price them between $120 and $500, and the gap tracks the movement and the dial accuracy, not the name on the listing.
Why the 1655 stands apart from other Explorer II references
Rolex launched the Explorer II in 1971 for cave explorers who spent days underground without daylight. The 24-hour hand plus a fixed bezel let a caver tell day from night at a glance. Unlike the GMT-Master, the bezel does not rotate, so the 24-hour scale is engraved straight into the steel.
Two case details matter to replica buyers. The 1655 has no crown guards, so the Twinlock crown sits exposed, and the lugs are drilled so a strap tool can push the spring bars out.
Rolex kept the reference in the catalog until 1985, then replaced it with the 16550. Dials changed several times during that run, which is why "correct" details differ from one year to the next.
What should a good 1655 replica get right?
- Case: about 40mm wide, brushed, slim profile, no crown guards.
- Bezel: fixed steel ring with a deep engraved 24-hour scale and a triangle at 12.
- Dial: matte black, orange arrow-tipped 24-hour hand, Mercedes hands with lume, date at 3 with no cyclops.
- Crystal: acrylic on the original. Many replicas ship with sapphire, which looks flatter and resists scratches.
- Caseback: plain steel, screw-down, no outer engraving.
- Lugs: drilled, with end links that sit flush against the case.
Which movement should you expect inside?
Most 1655 replicas run one of three movement types, and the choice changes how the watch works, not just what it costs.
- Asian 2813 automatic. Cheap and common. The 24-hour hand is often fixed or slaved to the hour hand, so it points but never sets.
- DG3804 or a Chinese GMT clone. The 24-hour hand sets on its own through the crown, which is the behavior a real 1655 has.
- ETA 2836-2 or a copy with a GMT module. Smoother winding and a higher beat rate. Ask the seller for the exact movement name.
The real 1655 ran on caliber 1575, a slow-beat workhorse at 19,800 vibrations per hour. No replica copies that movement, so a smooth sweep on a fake points to a modern engine, not to accuracy.
How much do 1655 replicas cost?
- $120 to $200: basic automatic, sapphire crystal, soft dial print, 24-hour hand that does not set.
- $200 to $320: better case shape, acrylic crystal option, working GMT hand, drilled lugs.
- $320 to $500: top of the replica range, with a closer dial, deeper bezel engraving, and a Swiss or Japanese movement base.
Prices swing by seller and by batch. A high price does not prove quality, so ask for photos of the watch you will actually receive.
What should you check before you pay?
- Ask for the movement name and a photo through the open caseback. "GMT movement" on its own means nothing.
- Request macro shots of the dial print, the orange hand, and the bezel numerals. Blurry photos hide soft engraving.
- Confirm the 24-hour hand sets by itself in the crown's middle position.
- Check the lume color. Vintage-style plots should be dull cream, not bright white.
- Ask whether the crystal is acrylic or sapphire, since the two look different on the wrist.
- Treat any water resistance claim as untested. Have a local watchmaker pressure test it before you swim.
What are the common flaws on a 1655 replica?
- Orange paint that reads too bright or too red next to an original.
- Dial text too thick, with wrong spacing between the lines.
- Bezel numerals cut shallow, so they fade in low light.
- Crown oversized, sitting proud of the case.
- Case too thick, with a flat caseback that rides high on the wrist.
- Lume plots too large and raised above the dial surface.
- End links that rattle or leave a gap at the lug.
Is buying a replica legal?
Rules differ by country. In the US, selling or trafficking counterfeit goods is a federal crime, and customs can seize counterfeit imports. Buying for personal use sits in a gray zone, but the watch can still be confiscated in transit. Check your local law before you order.
Frequently asked questions
Does the replica Explorer II 1655 have a working 24-hour hand?
Some do, some do not. Any version built on a GMT movement sets the orange hand on its own. Cheaper versions on a plain three-hand movement pin that hand to the hour hand, so it moves but cannot be set.
Is the "Steve McQueen Explorer" nickname accurate?
No. There is no known photo of McQueen wearing a 1655, and the nickname came from collectors and dealers, not from Rolex. McQueen wore a Submariner on screen in Le Mans.
How does the 1655 compare with a 16570 replica?
The 16570 is the later Explorer II with a rotating 24-hour bezel, a sapphire crystal, and a white dial option. Replicas of the 16570 are easier to find, but they do not carry the vintage look the 1655 copies.
Can a replica 1655 take an aftermarket strap or bracelet?
Sometimes. Drilled lugs and 20mm spring bars help, but end link fit varies by batch. Measure the lug width before you buy a bracelet.
Will a jeweler service a replica?
Most will not touch a counterfeit. A local watchmaker who handles Asian movements can swap or regulate one, but expect a refusal from brand-authorized shops.