There is no Rolex Explorer II reference 16559. Rolex has used a short list of reference numbers for the Explorer II since 1971, and 16559 is not among them. A listing, a forum post, or a seller that uses that number is working from either a typo or an invented reference, and both are reasons to stop and verify before any money changes hands. This guide covers the references that exist, how counterfeit Explorer II watches are usually assembled, and what a buyer gives up when the watch is not genuine.

The Explorer II reference numbers that actually exist

The line has five main references. Everything else sold under the Explorer II name, including anything labeled 16559, needs documentation from Rolex or a qualified watchmaker before it can be treated as real.

  • 1655 (1971): steel case, fixed 24-hour bezel, orange 24-hour hand, no quick-set date. Collectors call it the Steve McQueen, a nickname that does not match the watches the actor is documented to have worn.
  • 16550 (1985): sapphire crystal, caliber 3085, and the first white Polar dial in the line.
  • 16570 (1989): the long production reference, 40 mm, calibers 3185 and later 3186, sold until roughly 2011. Most Explorer II counterfeits copy this reference because the dial is simple to print and the case shape is easy to approximate.
  • 216570 (2011): 42 mm case, larger hands and markers, caliber 3187.
  • 226570 (2021): the current model, 42 mm, caliber 3285.

How counterfeit Explorer II watches give themselves away

The 16570 is the most copied version, so most of the tells in circulation apply to it.

  • 24-hour hand finish. Genuine hands have a matte, even orange. Many copies use a brighter, glossier paint that reflects light differently from the hour and minute hands.
  • Date window and cyclops. Check the magnification, the date font, and the position of the window under the crystal. Copies tend to be slightly oversized or offset.
  • Lume plots. Older genuine dials used tritium that has aged to a warm tone. Fresh, bright green lume on a watch sold as a 1990s example is a mismatch.
  • Caseback and lug stamps. Reference and serial numbers sit between the lugs on genuine watches. Stamps that look engraved rather than stamped, or that do not match the paperwork, are a problem.
  • Movement. The 3185 and 3186 beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Confirming this requires opening the case, which is work for a watchmaker, not a seller's promise.
  • Bracelet and clasp. End link fit, clasp stamping, and the feel of the crown when winding are all difficult to copy well.

No single detail proves a watch is fake. If you are considering a genuine purchase, an authorized service center can authenticate and service it.

What a counterfeit Explorer II costs you

Apparent advantages

  • Lower up-front price than a genuine 16570.
  • Immediate availability of dial and bezel combinations that are scarce in genuine form.
  • No waiting list and no dealer relationship required.

Real costs

  • Legal exposure. Importing counterfeit trademarked goods is illegal in the United States and shipments are subject to seizure and destruction.
  • No service path. Independent watchmakers often decline counterfeit movements, and parts are not available through legitimate channels.
  • No resale. Auction houses, dealers, and marketplaces that authenticate will reject it. Resale value is close to zero.
  • Unverified water resistance. A case that has never been pressure tested can leak in a sink, let alone a pool.
  • Unclear provenance. Counterfeit supply chains sit close to stolen goods and money laundering, which is a risk that has nothing to do with watches.

Alternatives that deliver the look

  • Pre-owned genuine 16570. The most affordable entry into the real Explorer II line. Buy on documented service history and a matching reference stamp.
  • Homage watches under their own names. Several microbrands build fixed-bezel 24-hour watches with their own branding. You get the field-watch look without counterfeit risk.
  • Mainstream 24-hour watches. Many brands sell steel GMT and 24-hour models that fill the same role for daily wear.

Bottom line

If a listing says 16559, treat it as a signal that the seller does not know the product or is hoping you do not either. If what you want is the Explorer II look, a pre-owned 16570 or a 24-hour watch from a brand that owns its own name gets you there with a service history, a legal purchase, and something you can sell later.